Informational

3 Light Bulb Mistakes Everyone Makes And How To Avoid Them

by admin · Apr 5, 2023

Using the wrong light bulb can really make your space feel all wrong. If your room feels dark and dingy or, the opposite, harsh and cold, your light bulb may be the culprit.

Before you buy another bulb, make sure you’re not making one of these common mistakes in your home!

Light Bulb Mistake #1
Using the Wrong Wattage

Watts refer to the amount of energy a light bulb uses. The lower the wattage, the less electricity a bulb needs to stay lit. Energy-efficient light bulbs can give off the same amount of light using fewer watts, which saves you money on your power bill!

Every light fixture has its own wattage requirements, so you’ll need to do a little sleuthing to find out what your fixture requires.

There should be a sticker or label with the wattage limit clearly printed on it, although you might need to unscrew one of your existing light bulbs and look near the threads to find it. If you can’t find the wattage limit on your fixture, give us a call and we can help you out!

Most light fixtures have an individual bulb wattage limit (typically 45W or 60W), but there are some that have an overall limit for the entire fixture instead. For these you’ll need to add the watts together for each bulb to make sure you’re under the safety limit.

It’s okay to use bulbs with lower watts than what your fixture calls for to save on your energy bill, but never go higher. Exceeding the wattage limit on a fixture could start a fire!

Light Bulb Mistake #2
Ignoring the Lumen Rating

A light bulb’s lumen rating will tell you how bright it is. The higher the lumen rating, the brighter it will appear. When it comes to lighting your home, different rooms need different levels of light. Work spaces need lots of light, so choosing bulbs with a high lumen rating is a great way to brighten your kitchen if it’s feeling dim. Other spaces like bedrooms and hallways don’t need to be as bright, so it’s okay to opt for bulbs with a lower lumen rating.

There isn’t an exact formula that will tell you how lumens you need in a room, because it depends on your use and design of the space. You’ll need more lumens in work spaces like kitchens and offices, and less in bedrooms. If your design aesthetic is bright and airy or dark and moody, you’ll need to take that into account when planning your lighting.

A good rule of thumb to get you started is 20 lumens per square foot for floors, 30 lumens per square foot for tables, and 50 lumens per square foot for desks, countertops, and task lighting.

How does this work when you have more than one light bulb in the room? Do lumens cancel each other out or add up? The short answer is: lumens are cumulative. In a room full of furniture, light bounces around enough that the lumens don’t directly add up, and the more bulbs you use the less precise it gets.

When you’re figuring out what you need in your home, it is 100% okay to add the lumens for each bulb in your room together to get a rough idea of what your space will need. You’ll probably end up adjusting it here and there as seasons change, when you repaint your walls, or if your use of the room changes. If your room has a lot of uses- consider getting bulbs that are dimmable so that you can change the light levels depending on what you’re doing!

Light Bulb Mistake #3
Buying the Wrong Color

If you didn’t know that light bulbs came in different color hues, now’s the time to learn! Light bulbs come in a wide range of light “temperatures”, measured in Kelvins (K). The temperature of the light you use in your room will dramatically change the way the room feels.

Warm (2,000K – 3500K)

Wam light bulbs give a room a soft, cozy, and intimate feel with an orange or yellow hue. Outside, you see this type of light during sunrises and sunsets. Inside, it’s often associated with vintage light bulbs, like Edison bulbs, or incandescent light bulbs. It’s great for places like the living room, bedroom, and dining room.

Cool/Natural (3500K – 5000K)

Cool or “Natural” light bulbs give off a truer white color that gives a room a clean, crisp, and inviting feel. This light is more like the light you’d see in the mornings and afternoons outdoors. It’s great for bathrooms, closets, and offices.

Daylight light bulbs (5000K – 6200K)

Daylight light bulbs give off a light that’s close to what you’d see at noon outside on a sunny day. Daylight light makes a room feel even more clean and crisp than natural light, but it can come off a little harsh if you’re not careful. It’s a great choice for lighting work spaces like kitchens and garages, and for task lighting, like a reading lamp.

Blue (6200K+)

After 6200K light starts to look blue, so that bulbs in this color aren’t typically used in homes. There are some exceptions: some artists prefer to work under this light, and people with Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) may find blue light beneficial in the winter months.

Bonus Mistake #4:
Just Living With It

If the lighting just doesn’t feel right in your room, you don’t have to live with it! Too dark and depressing? Add lumens! If your clean room still feels dingy, it could be that you need cooler bulbs… or if your room feels stark and cold, you can warm up your bulbs to make it feel more inviting. And always double-check your wattage before you buy! With the right wattage, lumens, and temperature, you’ll be surprised at how much better your lighting can work for you.

We know what a big deal it is to make your house feel exactly the way you want it to. Don’t let your lighting hold you back! If you have any questions about how to find the right light bulbs for your space, give our experts a call and we’ll help you find exactly what you need!

How Many Blades Does Your Ceiling Fan Really Need?

by admin · Mar 29, 2023

Ceiling fans are great at providing comfort year-round. A good ceiling fan will help you save on energy costs by circulating the air in your home. In the summer they create a draft, making the room feel cooler. In cold weather, you can switch the fan’s direction to circulate warm air from central heating around the room.

Ceiling fans are so ubiquitous that for many people it’s hard to imagine life without one! So what happens when your fan breaks, and it’s time to get a new one?

If you’ve shopped for ceiling fans recently, you know that there are a lot of options. From the ultra-modern models with a single fan blade, to the “windmill” design fans with so many blades that there’s hardly any space between them – many homeowners on the hunt start to ask:

How many blades does my ceiling fan really need?

Does the blade count actually change anything, or is it just for aesthetics?

In short, the answer is “yes to both.” The blade count on a ceiling fan is largely viewed as a style issue, but it does impact the way the fan works. Apart from the obvious design differences, the number of blades on a fan will also affect its noise level and energy consumption.

Noise Level

The fewer the blades, the faster a fan needs to spin to move the same amount of air. Lots of spinning means lots of moving parts, which usually translates to more noise. Take large industrial fans, for example – they typically have two or three blades and are pretty loud.

On the other end of the spectrum, fans with higher blade counts can move a lot of air spinning at a slower rate. Less motion means less noise – windmill-style fans with eight to ten blades are virtually silent.

There isn’t an exact cutoff between noisy versus quiet fans, but a good middle range is around five. If you want a quieter fan, one with five or more blades will likely be your best choice.

Energy Efficiency

Another thing to consider when choosing a fan is how much it will cost to run. Fans with more blades create more drag, requiring more energy to operate. This is one reason why large, always-on fans (like you’d see in a commercial space) often only have three blades. They may be a bit noisier, but they save on energy costs.

While its blade count does impact the energy efficiency of a fan, it’s definitely not the only factor involved. The efficiency of fans can also be affected by the length and angle of the blades and by the type of motor it uses. It’s best to check the energy rating of your fan when possible.

Style and Aesthetics

Aside from energy efficiency and noise level, the main difference between fans with high and low blade counts is really just style and aesthetics. “Windmill” styles with eight to twelve blades can feel rustic, whereas fans with two to three blades usually feel minimalist and industrial.

How do I know what the right number is for me?

The short answer to this question is – it really doesn’t matter very much for most people. It doesn’t matter whether noise levels, energy efficiency, or aesthetics are your top priority; it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find a fan that will meet your needs in all three categories.

Most often, it’s safe to shop by your style preferences first, then find a fan that meets your noise and efficiency needs from that selection. A modern, high-quality ceiling fan will be designed to work well regardless of the blade count.

If you’re looking for a quality fan that will keep you cool for years to come, stop by our showroom or give us a call. Our lighting experts are ready and waiting to help you find exactly what you need!

How Many Light Bulbs Do You Need? Understanding Lumens

by admin · Mar 2, 2023

Are you updating your light bulbs, but not sure how bright you need them? Or how many bulbs your room needs?

You’re not alone in the confusion. It can be difficult reading the package in the hardware store and understanding what the bulb will do for your home.

This post will briefly touch on how lumens work and then guide you on how to make sure you have the right light for each room in your house.

What Are Lumens?

With major innovations in lighting over the past twenty years, bulbs have become much more efficient. That’s great news for your electric bill and the environment! But a side effect is that watts are no longer a good measurement for brightness.

Watts measure the amount of energy used by the bulb. When all bulbs were incandescent, this also indicated brightness– the higher the watts, the more energy used, the brighter the bulb.

But with more efficient bulbs, like halogens and LEDs, much less power is used while still producing bright light. So a 40 watt incandescent light gives off the same light as an 8 watt LED!

So how will shoppers know that an 8 watt LED will replace their 40 watt incandescent? Instead of measuring power use, lumens measure brightness. Now no matter the energy efficiency, you can compare bulbs apples to apples.

How Many Lumens Do I Need?

So how many lumens do you need for your space? To calculate the right lumen range, you need to know the square feet of the space and the proper foot candles for the area.

The square footage of your room will help you know how much light you need– the bigger the space, the more light you need. To find out your square footage, simply measure the length and width of the room, then multiply those two numbers.

For example, if your room is 10 feet by 12 feet, your room is 120 square feet (10×12=120).

“Foot candle” is a less familiar term, but it means the brightness of a light source from one foot away. The target foot candle range will depend on the activity of the room. For workspaces like kitchens and offices you’ll want more light (more foot candles), and for bedrooms and dining rooms you’ll want less light (fewer foot candles).

Once you have the square feet of your room and the target foot candles, then you can determine how many lumens you need. Simply multiply your square feet by the desired foot candles!

Let’s say that your bedroom is 120 square feet. Multiply 120 by 10 for the low end and by 20 for the high end of the target zone.

120 x 10 = 1200

120 X 20 = 2400

Now you know that you need between 1200 and 2400 lumens for your bedroom!

Simple Cheat Sheet

If you don’t want to worry about foot candles, here’s a chart with a general estimate of how many lumens you need per square foot per area of your home. Remember, these calculations help determine the total light a room needs. But you’ll often concentrate light above tables, countertops, or a desk.

So if your living room is 15 feet by 20 feet, your total square footage is 300 (15 x 20 = 300). Then multiply that by the recommended 10 lumens to get a minimum of 3,000 lumens for your living room (300 x 10= 3,000).

How Many Bulbs Do I Need?

It may seem overwhelming to need a few thousand lumens for your room. Don’t worry– you will still use relatively few bulbs to get all the light you need. For reference, an 8 w LED bulb will give off about 450 lumens of light.

With just a few bulbs, you’ll have all your lighting covered. Put three in the ceiling fan, add a lamp with one bulb, and you’re done!

Need Help?

Proper lighting is essential to a fully functioning home– but it can be challenging to nail balanced brightness, great fixtures, and a budget! Contact the experts at Desert Lighting for advice on your projec

A Guide to the Basic Types of Light and How to Use Them In Your Home

by admin · Feb 22, 2023

Light is all around us, controls what we do and how our body runs. Yet, most people haven’t given much thought to the kinds of light that surround them. In this article, we’ll cover the basics of both as we explain how to use light to your advantage.

Types of Light in Interior Design

When we talk about interior design, there are a lot of different words that get tossed around about lighting. It can get a little confusing, but the good news is, if you can get down these main types of light you’ll be 90% good to go!

General/Ambient: This is the main source of light for a space. It fills the room with bright, balanced, even light. This usually comes from an overhead fixture centered in the room or an array of recessed lights.

Task: Task lighting is usually bright and used in combination with ambient light. It’s extra light that is strategically placed to add focused light to a workspace, like a kitchen counter or writing desk.

Accent: Accent light refers to light that is more about design than function. Spotlights, track lights, and strip LEDs can fall into this category. They often shine on artwork or architectural features like high ceilings or feature fireplaces. Although accent light does fill a function, the main value is decorative.

Mood: Mood lighting is generally soft, dim light. It encourages a calm or romantic atmosphere. Most often this is done with lamps, candles, or lights on dimmer switches.

When designing a lighting plan for your home, it’s important to create “layers” of light by including several types of lighting in each space. To see this in action, here’s a breakdown of the types of light found in this bedroom:

General/Ambient: Array of recessed lights along the ceiling

Task: Reading lamps on either side of the bed

Accent: LED light strip tucked around the edges of a coved ceiling, recessed lights shining on wall panel details, decorative sconces on wall centered around the dresser

Mood: Soft lights under closet doors, dimmer switches on several fixtures

This room is a great example of the way layered light adds to the design of a space without being overwhelming. Remember, you won’t usually be using all of these lights at the same time – but having options lets you customize the space for, however, you need to use it at the moment.

Other Types of Light

For most of your home projects, understanding the main types of lighting should be sufficient, but there are a few other lighting terms you may hear. Here are a few of the most popular terms:

Diffused Light

Properties: Gentle, encourages relaxation

Best locations: Bedrooms, tub, Living Room, Dining Room

Diffused light is a natural companion to warm light. This term refers to light that is scattered and doesn’t cast a hard shadow. You can create this effect through reflected or covered lighting. We’ll focus on the latter here and touch more on reflected light in the next section.

Breaking up light makes it less harsh and more relaxed, cozy. Popular design elements are boho wicker chandeliers, modern plastic-covered lights, or paper lanterns. Both allow for plenty of light but filter the harshness of the bulb.

The opposite of diffused light is hard light. This light shines directly from the source and casts a hard shadow. This light is often found in workspaces like the kitchen or office.

Reflected Light

Properties: Gentle, amplifies space

Best locations: Kitchen, Living Rooms, Bedrooms

This term has more to do with how light reacts in a design after it hits a surface in your home than with the source of the light. There are a few things that will affect how the light hits, and bounces off, the objects in your home.

Color

Light colors reflect light, and dark colors absorb light. You can make a room feel big and spacious with just a coat of light-colored paint on the walls and ceiling. If you go dark on your walls, you’ll often need to add additional light sources to keep your room from feeling small.

Finish

Smooth, glossy finishes like wood floors or metallic furniture will reflect light and bounce it back out into the room. Interiors with lots of glossy surfaces can get away with fewer light sources. If your room feels a little too bright – try adding in some softer, textured surfaces like a fabric sofa, a rug, pillows and blankets, or textured wall art.

Backlight

Properties: Highlights design, provides contrast, decreases eye strain

Best locations: Closets, Bookshelves, Cove ceilings, Wall panels, Kitchen cabinets, TVs and Computer Screens

Backlighting is the practice of lighting an object from behind. With a soft light source behind it, your bed, tv, art, or mirror will look like it’s glowing. In interior design, backlighting can also refer to the practice of lighting a wall, floor, or other surfaces with soft light (as seen above) to give the illusion of continuous, shadow-free illumination.

As A Design Element

The key to successful backlighting is to tuck the light sources out of view and in reflective areas. In interior design, backlighting is usually found tucked into the recesses of architectural details like cove ceilings or wall panels, or around cabinets, bookshelves, and closets.

Behind Screens

Another common use for backlighting has a little less to do with design and more to do with function. Running a strip of LED lights along the back of a TV screen or computer monitor creates a soft glow around the edges of the screen, which reduces the strain on your eyes. Light used in this context is also often called bias lighting.

Light Temperature

The temperature of light refers to its energy and wavelength. Higher energy light can appear blue and is called cool. Lower energy light appears yellow or red and is called warm. The temperature of the bulbs you put in your light fixtures can actually impact how you feel while you’re in the space, and can even affect your sleeping patterns.

Traditional incandescent bulbs only gave off warm light, so there was little variety in the light temperature of interior light fixtures. But LED technology has created light bulbs that can give off any wavelength from cool to warm, and some bulbs can change color with the click of a button on a remote.

Homeowners now have a much wider range of color temperatures to choose from – so it’s important to understand how these light temperatures affect you when you’re lighting your home.

Cool Light

Properties: Alertness, attention, working brain

Best Locations: Office, Kitchen, Vanity, Bathroom Mirror

Blue light is receiving a lot of negative attention these days, but it’s not all bad. Blue light is a very important part of both our daily cycle and our workday.

The biggest source of blue light is the sun. The blue spectrum of light activates our attentive brain, which helps to keep us alert.

Since blue light is excellent for concentration, it is perfect for work areas. The kitchen, home offices, homework areas, and around mirrors are perfect locations. It’s often used for general lighting and task lighting. Cool lights allow the whole family to focus up and get great work done.

Because cool light keeps your brain alert, it’s best to turn off all blue light sources 2 hours before bed. That includes your phone screens and TVs – if you’re not getting great sleep at night, try changing your relationship with blue light. It can make a big difference!

Warm Light

Properties: Relaxation, sleep, resting brain

Best Locations: Bedrooms, Living Room, Dining Room, Bathtub

This light has a longer wavelength, travels more slowly, and outputs less energy. Warm light signals our brains to relax and encourages rest and sleep.

Fire, such as from a candle or fireplace, is a natural source of red light. Sitting around a fire at night to feel cozy or romantic isn’t an arbitrary human idea – it’s biology!

Warm light sources are perfect for bedrooms, tub areas, living rooms, or dining areas. Ending your day in warm light will help your body to relax and get ready for excellent, restorative sleep.

Natural/Neutral Light

Properties: In between warm and cool light, bright but not harsh

Best locations: Substitute for cool light for sensitive eyes

There is a third bulb temperature marketed today. Natural or neutral bulbs give off light in between cool and warm. These bulbs may be particularly useful for those with light sensitivity problems. These bulbs are bright enough to fill ambient lighting needs to work in without feeling harsh.

Ask the Pros

It can feel intimidating to design the light of your home. The lighting pros at LitLiving are available to help you combine your aesthetic, room needs, and budget as they connect you with the best lighting showrooms around.

How to Safely Install a Ceiling Fan

by admin · Feb 20, 2023

Installing a new ceiling fan is a cheap way to save on energy costs all year without compromising on comfort. In the summer, ceiling fans cool down the house by creating a breeze. In the winter, they help circulate the heated air to warm the whole room evenly.

Putting in a ceiling fan is a win-win for your comfort levels and your budget – and it’s a pretty simple DIY project for homeowners. Plan on giving yourself a few hours (depending on the type of fan and your experience level with lighting DIYs), and grab a friend that can help you hold things in place while you work.

If you’re buying a ceiling fan new, it should come with thorough installation instructions. We always recommend following those instructions exactly to be sure that your fan is installed safely and properly. If you’re installing a secondhand fan, you may be able to find the installation guide online by searching with the model number on the fan. Either way, we’ll walk you through the basic steps here so that you can prepare.

1. Preparation

Before you break out your tool belt, make sure you have a good plan in place. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of a project and realizing you don’t have everything you need to complete the task.

Tool Checklist

Before you take on a ceiling fan installation project, make sure you have all the tools you need so you don’t have to rush off to your local hardware store for a last-minute purchase. To install a ceiling fan you’ll need to have a:

Voltage Tester
Ladder
Measuring Tape
Screwdriver
Ceiling Fan-Rated Junction Box
Fan Brace
Wire-Cutter/Stripper
Light Bulbs
Globes/Shades if they aren’t included
An extra-long downrod if you’re installing on a sloped ceiling
Ceiling Fan and Kit

Choosing the Right Fan Size

Measure the room you’re working in before you start. Not all fans are created equal, so pick one that will fit. Use the following guidelines to help.

For rooms smaller than 75 square feet (like bathrooms), pick a fan with blade spans of less than 36 inches.
Blade spans between 36 and 42 inches are ideal for rooms up to 144 square feet.
A 44-inch span is perfect for rooms up to 225 square feet, like a dining room.
For rooms that are 225 square feet or larger (a large living room, for example), you’ll need a fan with a 50 to 54-inch blade span.
The more space between the ceiling and the fan, the better! The ideal ceiling fan height is 8-9 feet above the ground.
If your ceiling is less than 8 feet, you’ll most likely need to install a flush-mount fan (no downrod).
High pitched ceilings typically require you to buy an extra-long downrod (so that the blades won’t hit the sloped ceiling), so check your ceiling height and angle before choosing your downrod.

Pro Tip: Once your fan is installed, the tips of the blades should be at least 30 inches from the walls, and the bottom edges of the blades should be at least 7 feet above the floor.

Other Important Tips

Ceiling fans are heavy! They need to be anchored properly to an electric ceiling box designed to hold the weight of the fan. Inspect the electrical box to ensure it’s fan-rated. There should be an inscription on the box to indicate this. If it’s not, you’ll also need to purchase a fan box before you get started.
Check to make sure the light switch you’re using is wired appropriately for the fan. If it isn’t, you may need to call a professional to get the job done.
Check the ceiling joists for any wiring or plumbing pipes that may be in the way.
If you’re adding a new fan where one didn’t exist, check local building codes to determine if you need a permit.
Always check your installation guide for any additional requirements that are specific to your fan. For some expert help choosing the perfect fan for your space, give us a visit or a call and we’d be happy to help.

2. Safety

Now that you’re ready to begin, head out to your circuit breaker and turn the power off for the room where you’ll be installing your fan. Also, make sure all of the wall switches in the room are safely in the “off” position. Do not rely on a wall switch alone to protect you from electrical shock! Always use a voltage tester to be sure the power is off before handling wires.

Pro Tip: Place some electrical tape over the switches you’ve turned off on the circuit breaker. This will prevent anyone from switching it back on while you’re working.

3. Remove Your Old Fixture

Let’s get started! First, you’ll need to take down the existing fixture. Most fixtures have easy-to-find attachment points, like screws or twist-off caps. Remove accessories like light bulbs, shades to get down to the base of your fixture, then unscrew the base from the ceiling.

If you’re removing an existing ceiling fan, remove the light bulbs and globes first. Then, take down the light kit (if needed – some fans have them, some don’t). Unscrew and remove the fan blades next. At this point, you may need to enlist a helper as the full weight of the fan base and motor can be heavy. Pull off the canopy (metal cover at the base of the fan). The last step is to remove the mounting bracket with a screwdriver!

Once you have the base of your fixture dropped away from the ceiling, unscrew the wire nuts connecting it to the electrical box. Be sure to test the wires with your voltage tester first!

4. Install a Fan Box

Before you start, check your existing electrical box. If it isn’t rated to support the weight of your fan, you’ll need to install a new one. To see if your existing box is rated to hold a fan, just take a look at the label! If you can’t find a label, err on the side of caution and get a new one.

You’ll have to do a little bit of homework here to figure out what will work best for your project. Fan boxes are easiest to install if you have open access, like in the attic or an unfinished ceiling. If you won’t have easy access you may need to widen your drywall hole a little, but you can usually find a brace that will slip through the existing hole.

Take a look at your rafters to determine the best way to install your fan box. Fan boxes can be attached directly to the rafter with a side bracket. If your new fan won’t be right next to a rafter, look for a brace that will span the space between two rafters. These braces can be a little trickier to install through a small hole in the ceiling, but they’ll give you a lot more breathing room when it comes to getting your fan box in the right place.

5. Install the Mounting Bracket

To secure the mounting bracket to the fan box, start by threading the wires through the mounting bracket. If the fan has a slide-on bracket, leave the bolts on the junction box, slide the bracket over the mounting hardware, and tighten the screws. For fans without a slide-on bracket, place the bracket over the mounting bolts that poke through the bracket. Then, secure it using the provided nuts. If your fan is a flush mount, pull the wiring through the canopy (the part that covers the wiring/mount bracket) and skip to step 7.

6. Install the Downrod

To set the downrod, you’ll want to find a flat work surface. Slip the canopy onto the downrod and pull the primary wires through the hollow downrod. Then, connect the downrod to the fan base. With the downrod and base assembled, attach the other end of the downrod to the mounting bracket.

7. Wire the Fan

Next, it’s time to wire! Hang the downrod – or canopy, if you’re installing a flush mount fan – on the hook on the mounting bracket. If there isn’t a good place to hang it, phone a friend to hold the fan up for you to free up your hands while you connect the wires.

Before you start, check to make sure all your wiring (and the wire nuts) will fit in the ceiling. Use your wire cutters to trim down any wires that won’t. This will also keep them from vibrating against the canopy when the fan is on. Use wire strippers to expose the copper of the wires on the new ends.

Connect the corresponding wires using the provided wire nuts. Your installation guide will have a diagram to follow, but, generally speaking, the fan’s green wire connects to the ground wire, the fan’s black motor wire connects to the black supply wire, and the fan’s white wire connects to the white (or neutral) supply wire.

Double-check your work against the diagram, then gently push the wires into the junction box. Lift the fan into position, then clip it to the mounting bracket and secure the screws.

Pro Tip: Some fans come with additional wires for extra features, like having a separate switch for the light and fan. If your switches or wires don’t match the diagram, you might need to check in with an electrician or a lighting specialist at our showroom to help you get things set up correctly.

8. Blades and Bulbs

Now it’s time to install the fan blades. Every fan is a little bit different – but most fans will have an arm or bracket that you’ll need to attach to the blade and then to the base using a screwdriver. Some fans have quick-install blades that speed up the process using keyhole slots that slip over the fan’s mounting screws and lock into place with a little tug.

Some fans have reversible blades – so make sure you’re checking each time that you have the correct side pointed down!

By now, you should be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel – so let’s install the bulbs! For fans with a light kit, refer to your guide to ensure everything goes in place correctly. Generally, you’ll just need to install the shades, globes, or light cover. If your fan did not come with bulbs, make sure the bulbs you install have the correct base type and wattage

If your fan came with a remote, don’t forget to install the remote control holder!

9. Lights… Fan… Action!

Last, but not least, it’s time to test out your new ceiling fan! Go back to your circuit breaker and turn the power back on. Try switching your fan and lights on and off using the light switch or remote control. Test all of the speed settings to make sure your fan is secured properly and doesn’t wobble or rattle.

Most of the time, installing a ceiling fan is a pretty straightforward DIY project. Occasionally, an odd issue can crop up due to things like old wiring. If you run into any trouble, be sure to give us a call right away, or call an electrician that can help you troubleshoot the issue.

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Congratulations DIY master! Now that you’ve successfully installed your new ceiling fan, get ready for a fresh breeze to blow your way–and some savings too. With all that extra cash blowing around, come visit us and we’ll help get you started on your next project.

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DISCLAIMER: Be sure to follow all the manufacturer’s installation instructions and take all recommended safety precautions. Check before installing to see if you need a permit and be sure all building and electrical codes are observed. If you have any questions or are unsure about installing the fan yourself, contact a licensed electrician or Desert Lighting for more help.

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